I love reading old recipes – or receipts as they were once called – so here’s a seasonal one to celebrate Day Four of the Advent Bookfest. It’s from The Closet of Sir Kenelm Digby Knight Opened, which was published in the 17th century and also includes wonderful instructions for making alcoholic drinks like metheglin, ‘sider’ and cherry-wine.Parboil Neats-tongues. Then Peel and hash them with as much as they weigh of Beef-suet, and stoned Raisins and picked Currants. Chop all exceeding small, that it be like Pap. Employ therein at least an hour more, then ordinarily is used. Then mingle a very little Sugar with them, and a little wine, and thrust in up and down some thin slices of green Candyed Citron-peel. And put this into coffins of fine light well reared crust. Half an hour baking will be enough. If you strew a few Carvi comfits on the top, it will not be amiss.”


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